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Presented by Mountain Gear,
and sponsored by The North Face,
the 2009 Red Rock Rendezvous featured the following list of world-renowned athletes.
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YogaSlackers
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 What makes someone a YogaSlacker? Identifying ourselves as climbers, or yogis, or endurance athletes, or eco-activists just seems too limiting. We are dreamers, adventurers, lovers, friends, explorers. We strive to discover the deepest aspects of human potential within ourselves and to smile from each ad every cell in our bodies. Why would we limit ourselves to less?
The founders of Team YogaSlackers are Jason Magness and Sam Salwei. Jason and Sam are one of the developers of slackline yoga. An adventure racer and climbing gym owner, Jason is also an advanced level Ashtanga practitioner and a certified AcroYoga teacher. He describes himself as someone ho can’t make up his mind – yoga, climbing, traveling, adventure racing – he enjoys working and playing at a high level in all of them.
Sam comes from North Dakota and is the visionary behind Team Yogaslacker’s To Cross the Moon Expedition of snowkiting through the state of North Dakota using only the wind in the dead of February, as an environmental education project. Sam is also a yoga teacher, advanced AcroYoga practitioner, expert snowkiter, rock climber, and adventure racer.
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| Back to the top | Photographer: David Sygall |
Desert Winds Adventure Series
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 Robert Finlay has been an ultimate adventurer for many decades now. He has spent almost 3 decades rock climbing and speed hiking. An avid mountain biker, Robert has been biking and kayaking for over 15 years. Putting all these outdoor pursuits together into Adventure Racing was a natural progression and Robert has now been competing as an adventure racer for 14 years now. He started his own company Kayak Lake Mead and that company has now grown into the Desert Winds Adventure Series which he runs with his partners Colleen Ast and Glenn Millar.
Colleen started her involvement in sports at a young age, participating in swimming and rowing for many years. At the same time that her rowing career was excelling, Colleen discovered a passion that would span an 18 year career, training marine mammals. While in Las Vegas, she discovered another passion, mountain biking. Along with her partners, Robert and Glenn, she was able to set big goals and participate in numerous races including 12 Hours of Bootleg, the Silverman half ironman distance triathlon and the TransAlps race, an Epic race across the Alps covering four countries.
Glenn grew up in northern California and graduated from UC Davis with a Bachelor of Science in Physiology. At an early age Glenn started playing baseball, and later added football to his sports resume in high school. Since leaving college he has remained active in a variety of sports, with a focus on running and mountain biking. He has been an active and accomplished adventure racer since 2000 with the team that he formed with close friends. Over the years they have won several sprint and 12 hour races and they have completed several 24 hour races. Glenn’s focus has always been on team achievement and, while winning is great, completing a race with friends is the ultimate reward.
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Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden
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Beth Rodden started climbing at the age of 14. She was obsessed after her dad took her to Rocknasium, the local climbing gym in Davis, CA. After being a gym junkie, she became addicted to outdoor climbing, ticking many hard ascents. In 2000, she began climbing with her husband, Tommy Caldwell, and freed Lurking Fear (5.13c) on El Cap. Since then she has focused on climbing in the mountains and has many first female ascents of hard trad routes, including onsighting the Phoenix (5.13a), Grand Illusion (5.13c) and Country Boy (5.13d). She recently established the Optimist, 5.14b, at Smith Rock, her third 5.14, and the hardest route an American woman has climbed. She hopes to continue climbing and traveling with the world with Tommy as long as possible.
Tommy is a climber through and through. He started climbing at age three and
has been passionate about the sport ever since. He has established numerous
5.14¹s and a 5.15 sport climb, has bouldered V13 and has freed six routes on
El Capitan (the most of anyone), four of which were first ascents and one of
which is likely the hardest long free climb in the world. He has climbed on
five continents and been on expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Bolivia and Canada.
Many magazines have called him one of the best all around climbers in the
world. Tommy is also a contributing editor to Rock and Ice Magazine and has
written feature length articles for Climbing and Alpinist Magazine.
They are both on the design board for Marmot and work closely with other sponsors in
developing their products.
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| Back to the top | Photographer: unknown |
Scott Cory
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Scott has been a climbing phenom since the tender age of 7. Now into his teens, he’s living the life that climbers twice his age are still dreaming about, traveling extensively for sport climbing, bouldering, big-wall climbing and competitions. Scott loves interacting with all the wonderful people he meets during his travels. He also loves bringing climbing to others, whether it’s teaching people the sport or using his talents to help those in need, as he does with his 9/11 fundraiser, Climb for Freedom. Scott is currently training for his next big-wall endeavor in Yosemite – climbing both “The Nose” of El Capitan and Half Dome in a single day with climbing great Hans Florine. The climb will be a charity fundraiser for the Mauzy Foundation. Visit Scott’s website at www.scottcory.com for all the details. |
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Peter Croft
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Peter Croft has lived in the Bishop area with his wife Karine for about the last seven or eight years. Its a great place to be for a climber, particularly if you like to mix it up like he does. Bouldering, cragging, mountain climbing and a close shot to Yosemite when Tioga Pass is open. Although Peter does a lot of the first two in winter and spring, his main focus since he’s been there has been the mountains where his thing has been big traverses and link-ups. Mostly, this kind of climbing rarely entails climbing any harder than 5.10 but the days tend to be long, usually starting way before dawn and ending at bedtime. Its hard to explain how fun these days are.This summer Peter shifted emphasis a bit and tried his hand at some first ascenting of some technically more difficult climbing in the mountains. More specifically he did a few new routes in the 5.12+ to 5.13 range on the Incredible Hulk, the 1500 foot wall in the northern Sierra. Climbing with Dave Nettle, Andrew Stevens and Hans (from Truckee), Peter had one of his favorite seasons ever. |
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Olivai Cussen
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Olivia Cussen recently became the 3rd American woman to attain IFMGA certification. She is an AMGA certified Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering guide. Olivia lives in Leavenworth, WA where she operates the Northwest Mountain School with her husband John Race. Olivia has been guiding for 8 years and has lead trip in places including Alaska, Argentina, Europe, and the Himalayas. When not climbing or skiing Olivia enjoys spending time at home cooking for friends. |
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Malcolm Daly
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Malcolm started climbing in 1969 during a summer road camp where he spent a week in the Tetons. He took a climbing lesson as part of the program then took another, then another. And that was all it took. He moved to Colorado in 1973 to go to college and began bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir, then one of the world centers of bouldering. In 1979 he was bouldering B1+, (now rated V9) and has ticked routes like Midnight Lightning and the Mammen Traverse. He spent many days climbing in Eldorado, Estes Park and Veedauwoo while he was trying to earn his college degree. In April of 1992 Malcolm started Trango and now owns Trango, Stonewear Designs and e-Grips. It’s been a rough but rewarding road with little financial incentive, lots of work, little sleep, a bit of climbing, and tons of great friends. In addition to climbing, he’s an avid skier, snowboarder, track skier, tele skier, runner, biker, kayaker, photographer and father. In May of 1999, while attempting a first ascent on Thunder Mountain in Alaska, Malcolm fell 200’ shattering both legs and feet, and getting stranded for two days, alone on the ice. By the time help arrived, both of his feet were frostbitten and one eventually had to be amputated. He has the first amputee ascents of many fine classic routes in Eldorado, Lumpy Ridge and Indian Creek. |
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Mica Dash
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 In 2,000, after becoming hopelessly obsessed with climbing, Micah moved to Yosemite California where he spent three years as a member of the legendary Yosemite Search and Rescue Team. He has followed up his El Cap resume with all free ascents of the Regular Route on Half Dome (V 5.12+), and El Capitan's Freerider (VI 5.12+). During the summers of 2002 and 2003 Micah traveled to Greenland where he accomplished the first free ascent and the first one day ascent of Nalumasortoq. Much of his time has also been spent climbing in Indian Creek Utah. In 2005, he was featured in the film Return 2 Sender which won best climbing film at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Most recently, he has focused on climbing on the giant walls and faces of the Himalaya and Karakorum ranges where he once again has become hopelessly obsessed. In 2005 Micah made the first one day (10 hour) ascent of the Eternal Flame on Nameless "Trango" Tower in Pakistan. In 2006 he returned to the Trango Valley and completed the second ascent of the 3,000 foot Cats Ear Spire with Eric DeCaria (elevation 17,585). Most recently, in August of 2007, Micah and his partner Jonny Copp made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Shafat Fortress (elevation 19,192) and unclimbed walled mountain in the seldom explored Zanskar Valley of India. Micah is also featured in the recently released climbing movie The Sharp End. |
| Back to the top | Photographer: Jonny Copp |
Brittany Griffith
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"The freedom, the friends, the chalk in my hair, the cold can of Pabst soothing my aching fingers..." Brittany bucks the trend of the 5.13 climbing athlete by being world class at multiple sports and taking an easy-going approach to life. Learning Curve: Becoming a black belt in Tae Kwon Do, Racing on the NORBA downhill mountain bike circuit. Brittany Griffith. Crag of the Month, USA. |
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Eric Horst
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 Eric Horst has been climbing for 32 years, establishing hundreds of first ascents at his home crags in the eastern US. Eric is perhaps best known as the author of several popular Falcon books, including Training for Climbing, Learning to Climb Indoors, How to Climb 5.12, and Conditioning for Climbers, and he has coached hundreds of climbers through his training seminars and web site. Eric has written dozens of magazine articles over the past 20 years and he continues to maintain the Nicros online Training Center and records monthly training podcasts for Podclimber.com. Eric’s next book, Maximum Climbing, will be released in January 2010—visit his website www.TrainingForClimbing.com to learn more.
Eric has been an Access Fund member since the organization was founded in 1989, and he is also an active member of the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC). For the past three years, Eric has conducted training seminars and slides shows as part of the HERA Climb For Life program in the Washington DC area. Eric is a climbing Ambassador of La Sportiva, Nicros, and Sterling Rope. He lives with his wife and two sons in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.
Climbing Performance and Research
Nicros' Online Training Center
Training Tips Podcasts
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Sarah Hueniken
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Sarah Hueniken has been living and guiding in Canmore, Alberta for the past 5 years. As an ACMG (UIAGM) Assistant Alpine guide and rock guide, she spends her winters guiding ice and mixed routes and her summers guiding rock and alpine routes. Having climbed for over 13 years, Sarah has traveled and worked in various places throughout the US, Mexico, South America and Asia to explore the mountains of the world. Highlights have included a first ascent of a 6000m peak bordering Tibet, participating in various climbing competitions and achieving a personal goal of climbing 5.13. Sarah also works with Chicks with Picks and NOLS, is an Outdoor Research sponsored athlete and is currently working on becoming a full mountain guide. |
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Arno Ilgner
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 Arno Ilgner distinguished himself as a pioneering rock climber in the 1970s and '80s, when the top climbs were bold and dangerous first ascents. These personal exploits are the foundation for Ilgner's unique physical and mental training program--The Warrior's Way. In 1995, after a thorough search of the literature and practice of mental training and the great warrior traditions, Ilgner formalized his methods, founded the Desiderata Institute, and began teaching his program full time. Since then, he has helped hundreds of student sharpen their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. Ilgner considers the joy and satisfaction in the effort – the "journey" – intimately linked to successful attainment of goals, the "destination". Alumni of his courses now include some of the nation's most prominent climbers.
Ilgner has run clinics in the north- and southeastern U.S, to California, Canada, Australia and the U.K. He has worked with young competition climbers and written national magazine articles based on his methods. He holds a BA in geology, spent several years operating his own geological consulting firm in the Wyoming oil fields, acted as Chief Financial Officer for an industrial tool distribution company, attended the Army Ranger School, and served a non-combat tour of duty in Korea. He currently resides with his family near Nashville, Tennessee. |
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Jon Jonckers
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Jon Jonckers wants others to think he’s a hardcore runner, climber and skier, but he readily admits he’s not. Since bitten by the climbing bug 16 years ago, he has set routes for regional climbing comps, assisted with local climbing guide publications, and scrubbed dozens of hardly-worth-mentioning boulders. Jon has also climbed Rainier – Spokane to summit and back – in less than 48 hours. He likes good beer, good arguments and good guitar jams. When he isn’t working at Omega Pacific, or training for the next big climb or marathon, he’s likely at the computer writing for blogs or magazines. In the past year, his greatest accomplishments include running two marathons in two weeks and climbing St Paul Peak in Montana with his 5-year-old daughter, Erin. |
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Alli Rainey & Kevin Wilkinson
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 Climbing since 1992, Harvard graduate Alli Rainey lasted for a single year working a real-world job before she chose to take a different route, becoming a rock climber and freelance writer. As a climber, Alli’s accomplishments range from redpoints of some 40 5.13’s up to 5.13+ (including many unrepeated first ascents and first female ascents) and onsights of some 200 5.12’s up to 5.12d, to bouldering V9, to winning and placing highly in numerous local, regional, and national bouldering competitions throughout her tenure as a climber. Alli’s climbing sponsors include Acopa, Clif Bar, Flashed, Native Eyewear, Petzl, prAna, Rocky Mountain Sunscreen, and Sterling Rope. As a writer, to date Alli has completed several full-length book projects, including Bouldering USA, as well as writing numerous articles for a variety of magazines and journals, including a monthly rock-climbing column she wrote for seven years for Rocky Mountain Sports and articles published Men's Fitness, Rock & Ice, Climbing, Alpinist, Gripped, American Alpine News, and Boulder Magazine, among many others.
Lately, Alli’s focus in the climbing community at large has turned to public service, with her efforts geared toward participating in as many community-oriented climbing events that she can fit into her traveling-climber/writer lifestyle. You’ll find Alli at community-oriented happenings such as the C5 Youth Foundation’s climbing program, HERA Climb for Life events, and more. Alli’s philosophy is simple: she believes that it’s these types of events — the unique opportunities to reach out to the climbing community and/or the community at large and to speak the language she knows best (the language of rock climbing) — that enable her to positively impact the world around her in the most effective way she can. In sharing her infectious passion for rock climbing, which has defined and shaped so much of her world, lifestyle, and core being, Alli has found a way to take her relationship with climbing onto the more meaningful level of benefiting others.
When she’s not climbing or writing, Alli enjoys spending her time training; exploring and playing in the woods and the desert with her friends and her dog, Jedi; cooking; reading; listening to and playing music; eating good food (good being a relative term, since anything tastes good if you’re hungry enough); running; and laughing. Kevin Wilkinson
Climbing since 1999, rock climber Kevin Wilkinson spent nearly a decade working as a backcountry ranger for Canada's B.C. Parks before he decided that even four months away from climbing every year was too much. Since 2007, then, Kevin has made climbing even more his reality, traveling to locales both far and near to pursue his passion. To date, his accomplishments include redpoints of nearly 20 5.14s, onsights of 30 5.13s, 125 first ascents in Japan, Canada, Spain, and the U.S., and equipping routes in Maple Canyon, UT; Last Chance Canyon, NM; Ten Sleep Canyon, WY; Lakit and Saint, BC; among others. Kevin's sponsors for rock climbing include La Sportiva, Petzl, and prAna. The writer of two self-published guidebooks (Lakit, BC and Saint, BC), Kevin has also bouldered V11/12 and recently tried his hand at indoor competition for the first time in 2007, with positive results.
When Kevin isn't climbing or training for climbing, he uses climbing as a vehicle to give back to the climbing community and the community at large. Kevin's community participation has included events such as Rocktoberfest, HERA Climb for Life, and the American Alpine Club's annual gathering, as well as helping to found and coordinate the inaugural climbing program for the C5 Youth Foundation in the summer of 2008. Sharing his passion for climbing with others through teaching and outreach programs provides Kevin with the opportunity to support the growth and development of this sport both within the community and beyond, while helping to promote the companies he believes in in the process.
Outside of climbing, Kevin enjoys searching for new rock, riding his motorbike, and of course, eating gummy bears. |
| Back to the top | Photographer: unknown |
Joe Kinder
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Joe Kinder began to love climbing the minute he saw two climbers top-roping in Colorado when he was 10 years old. The psyche finally came out when he moved from Chicago to New Hampshire at 15. Here he authored and repeated the hardest routes and boulder problems in the Northeast, from 14d and v13 to 13c r/x trad climbs. An East-Coaster from the get-go this guy is psyched! Completely obsessed with the sport of climbing, Joe eats, sleeps and breathes climbing. Like every psyched climber his life revolves around the sport, which has led him to Las Vegas. He claims that "Southern Nevada and Utah have the BEST and most expansive limestone-route-possibilities in the country." He has already repeated a hand full of the hardest established lines here and has authored one new 14a. He has bolted projects that once climbed
will be recognized as some of the hardest in the country and the world. His attitude is driven by pure psyche to climb challenging terrain.
He loves challenge and loves the city. Not a dirt-bag climber by any means....his profession is......"a hustler"....not exactly dumpster-diving-quality of life for this east-coaster. "Positivity is essential in everything", he claims...a true optimist. "When the going gets tough you gotta buck up....and that's that." Now that's east coast...
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| Back to the top | Photographer: Keith Ladzinski |
Chris Lindner
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By age six Chris was red-pointing 5.12, by age 9 he did 5.13, and then his first 5.14a at age 14! At age 16 he red-pointed 5.14c! Now at age 21 he has red-pointed 18 routes above the 5.14 level and well over 200 routes at the 5.13 level, including twenty 5.13d's. Chris has onsighted 5.13c on three occasions. In the realm of bouldering Chris has done several V9's and V10's. He has appeared in several climbing videos, including Inertia 1, Inertia 2 and Move On Up (Swedish). He's been featured in both Rock & Ice and Climbing cover photos. |
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Dean Lords
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Many of Dean's favorite winter accomplishments have been on the frozen drips of the Absaroka-Beartooth Range in Montana, a handful of successful trips to the alpine arena of the Canadian Rockies, and numerous first ascents of ephemeral gems in the central ranges of Idaho. Dean favors technical and challenging Grade V alpine routes, splitter cracks, the sequential movement of long, steep, endurance sport climbs, and scratching around on thin and pumpy mixed lines. He is no stranger to difficult terrain with dozens of 5.13 redpoints, and 5.12+ onsights every year; combined with notable first ascents up to 5.13+ and significant repeats in almost every aspect of climbing. |
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Andres Marin
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I grew up in Ibague, Colombia. I moved to the USA five years ago. Since I moved here I’ve had the opportunity to focus and learned lots in my trad and especially in my OW Technique. I’ve had the opportunity to climb routes like Liquid Sky 5.12- chimney in Indian Creek, Brother From Another Planet 5.12 a/b OW, Carnivore 5.12 b OW and Taming of the Shrew 5.12 c/d OW in the CO Nat’l Monument. I’m also an AMGA Certified Rock Guide. One of my favorite things about climbing OW’s is the complexity of the techniques that you have to use. From stacks, to knee jams, to Levitation… and off course my favorite thing is being up side down for a long time. |
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Ammon McNeely
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Ammon is best known for his speed climbs in Yosemite and Zion National Parks and owns the most records than anyone. He has climbed El Capitan over 50 times, 20 of them topping out with a speed record, 10 of which was a First One Day Ascent. He focuses on three major aspects of big wall climbing: leading, cleaning and lower-outs, with proficiency as the objective. Whether you’re an aspiring big wall climber or a seasoned veteran, you’re sure to leave having learned a trick or two from his class. This is the 5th year Ammon will be teaching a clinic at the Red Rocks Rendezvous. It’s not uncommon to hear clients raving about it afterward. Don’t miss out! |
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Jason Nelson
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What makes Jason Nelson special is his hot little wife Lisa, and funky son Zane that he keeps in tow. In fact, with these distractions, nobody even notices Jason on the other end of the rope. Jason has managed to bundle a family, travel, climbing, and a business into a life filled with love, passion, and dreams.
Jason Nelson began climbing at the age of 18 on the small crags of New England. These days he lives in Ouray, Colorado making first ascents of rock climbs up to 5.13, and this year putting M12 on the map in Ouray. Jason has placed in the top 10 at the Ouray Ice Festival Competition every year in the past four that he has competed, and was route-setter for last years tuna log / flying circus route.
Jason has climbed all over the world including; USA, Canada, Mexico, Peru, Thailand, Spain and Australia. He can be seen on big-walls, ice falls, sport climbs, the occasional boulder, competing at various ice competitions, and events like the Red Rocks Rendezvous, the Ouray Ice Festival, and Sterling Ropes Goddess on the Rocks Camps.
When Jason is not climbing, he is usually spending time with the aforementioned wife and son, or sitting behind the computer designing web sites for his company which he started in 2002, Visual Adventures. Jason has also recently been drinking the cool aid CrossFit.
"I believe that climbing is supposed to be fun. Granted, sometimes it takes the passage of time for something to be considered fun. Climbing should be balanced with other things in life so that you keep wanting more." |
| Back to the top | Photographer: Alain Denis |
Casey Newman
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Casey Newman is a long time member of the climbing industry and community, having avoided getting a real job in many different ways. He started climbing in New England in 1973 and immediately became hooked for life. After living for several years in New Hampshire he moved to Colorado in ’78 and doesn’t plan on ever living anywhere else. As an instructor, guide, sales rep, gym owner and manager, accreditation reviewer, wall designer, route setter, portable wall operator, climbing wall consultant, and currently Brand Manager for Trango and e-Grips, Casey has a broad, deep pool of knowledge and experience to draw on. Casey has climbed and guided around the U.S., Canada and Europe and is an enthusiastic protagonist of trad, sport and bouldering. His favorite areas include RMNP, Eldo, the Sierras and the Dolomites. He’s also an avid runner and skier and likes his beer. Casey has been happily married for more than 25 years and has two sons, 14 and 20. The older one has made the same questionable choice of activities and is now a climber too. |
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Ivo Ninov
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Ivo began climbing in 1989 in Bulgaria and since that time has climbed in three hundred and fifty areas around the world. He has been a certified UIAA Guide since 1994. Six years ago he arrived in the United States not knowing a word of English, with the dream of climbing with the best climbers in the world. Ivo believes his lifestyle encompasses the rock climbing community and represents the dream and the stoke that you get from that lifestyle. Since 1999 he has spent over 6 months on the face of El Capitan trying to free new lines and speed climb around. Ivo climbs free up to 5.13, aid to A5, bouldering on-site to V8, sport climbing on-site to 5.13a/b, trad climbing on-site 5.12c/d and mix climbing to M8. His hobbies include photography, kite surfing, surfing and paragliding. |
| Back to the top | Photographer: Ben van der Klooster |
Lisa Rands
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Lisa Rands grew up in Southern California, where she spent her early climbing years seeking traditional roped adventure.
While studying for her geology degree in college, she was introduced to bouldering, which suited her powerful style well.
But it was only after working for a geotechnical firm in Colorado that she decided to devote herself to her sport full-time.
She knew she would not be content in life doing anything else and never wanted to have to ask herself, “What if?”
It didn’t take long for Lisa to catch the public’s eye. From 2000 onward she began breaking barriers with first female
ascents of bold, cutting-edge lines at premiere bouldering destinations from North America to Europe and scoring huge
victories in international competitions. In the summer of 2002, despite her limited competitive experience, she beat the
best gym-trained climbers in the world in two major events and ended her first year of international competition ranked
number one in the world. She has dominated the famous outdoor Phoenix Bouldering Contest for the past three years,
finishing in 2003 with a score almost three times that of her nearest rival. Even away from the hype of the competitive
circuit, Lisa proves herself repeatedly. Venturing to England’s famed gritstone edges, she welcomed a new challenge,
making the hardest onsights by any woman on the area’s short but exceptionally bold routes. With her ascent of the
spectacular arête, “The End of the Affair” at Curbar Edge, she became the first woman ever to climb E8. Yet for all of her
accomplishments, Lisa is known in the climbing world not only for her exceptional talent, but also her modest personality
and friendly demeanor off the rock—truly an inspiration to all who meet her. |
| Back to the top | Photographer: unknown |
Dale Remsberg
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Never one to focus on a single aspect of climbing, Dale is an accomplished all around climber. His passion depends on the season, feeling equally happy on WI6, M9 or 5.13. As an Fully Licensed AMGA/IFMGA mountain guide, and new member of the AMGA instructor pool, Dale spends much of his time encouraging new climbers through guiding. Whether mountain climbing in Peru, climbing long alpine routes in Rock Mountain National Park, or tackling classic ice routes in Vail, Dale loves teaching new climbers how to achieve their goals. Recently he has been focusing on scary trad climbing and speed solo climbing in the flatirons near boulder. You are just as likely to find him working sport routes at Rifle, climbing long desert cracks at Indian Creek or seeking thin ice in Alberta. Whatever his endeavor, his quiet determination and love of the mountains will generally ensure success with a smile on his face. |
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Brady Robinson
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Brady Robinson is currently serves as the Executive Director of the Access Fund, the national advocacy organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. He is a veteran of over a dozen international climbing expeditions and has 10 years experience as a rock climbing instructor for Outward Bound and NOLS. Brady is really pumped to put his teaching hat back on and get people excited about climbing safely and efficiently in the outdoors. |
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Beth Rodden
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Beth Rodden started climbing at the age of 14. She was obsessed after her
dad took her to Rocknasium, the local climbing gym in Davis, CA. After being
a gym junkie, she became addicted to outdoor climbing, ticking many hard
ascents. In 2000, she began climbing with her husband, Tommy Caldwell, and
freed Lurking Fear (5.13c) on El Cap. Since then she has focused on
climbing in the mountains and has many first female ascents of hard trad
routes, including onsighting the Phoenix (5.13a), Grand Illusion (5.13c) and
Country Boy (5.13d). She recently established the Optimist, 5.14b, at Smith
Rock, her third 5.14, and the hardest route an American woman has climbed.
Beth is on the Marmot design board and works with her other sponsors in the
development of their products. She hopes to continue climbing and traveling
with the world with Tommy as long as possible. |
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Paul Stein
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Paul Stein started climbing in 1999 after moving to Utah. Learning in Indian Creek and Red Rocks provided a solid traditional background and a desire for more adventure Paul took up Ice climbing as well as mixed. Climbing in the Tetons and Rocky Mountain national Park on the classic multi-pitch rock routes as well as the granite of Utah and other areas in the surrounding states allowed Paul to become exposed to different rock types and styles. Paul has put up many mixed first asscents in Utah and has competed in the Ouray Ice Festival for the past two years. Paul is a Instructor and Guide and is passionate about climbing, learning various disciplines, and participating in festivals and special events around the country. |
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Mark Synnott
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Mark Synnott is well known in the climbing community for his many big-wall and alpine climbing adventures. His travels have taken him to places like Baffin Island, Patagonia, Pakistan, Nepal, Tibet, the Alaska Range and West Africa. Synnott is one of the first climbers to explore Baffin Island's remote east coast, and has pioneered four big wall first ascents in the area, including a grade VII on the 4700-foot north face of Polar Sun Spire. In 1997 he snagged the coveted second ascent of El Cap's hardest line, the Reticent Wall (A5). Equally comfortable on ice and mixed as he is on rock, Mark has climbed Grade 6 test pieces in the Canadian Rockies, France and Norway. When he's not in the mountains, Mark works with The North Face Research, Design and Development teams and lectures frequently on his life of adventure. In addition to his climbing, Synott is a successful freelance photojournalist and a senior contributing editor to Climbing Magazine. |
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Sonnie Trotter
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In his mid 20’s, Sonnie Trotter holds a distinguished six-year career as a professional rock climber, trainer and product designer. He has developed a deep passion for adventure sports, outdoor living and world travel. Through his past accomplishments, he has consistently proven his ability to envision possibilities and realize objectives.
Sonnie is recognized as Canada’s most prolific free-climber and is the first Canadian to win a US National; climb 5.14c; establish 5.14c and is the third person in North America to establish 5.14ds.
Sonnie’s philosophy is easy. Do what you love. Love what you do. Take less. Give more. Never quit. Never follow. Be passionate. Be bold. Be honest. Respect people. Respect the environment. Always bring out the best in your family and friends. Change is the only constant. Fear is an illusion. Attitude is everything. |
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Don Welsh
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Don Welsh has been climbing rocks for over twenty years. Though he no longer sleeps in his van on a full time basis, his passion for climbing is still as fervent as it was in 1986 when he once spent 13 hours in a home made butt bag in dolt hole on the Nose. A well rounded climbing career from trad climbing in Yosemite Valley, to sport climbing 5.14 in Rifle and the VRG, a proud member of the Metolius climbing team, Don’s love for climbing continues to concern family and friends. Growing up in Las Vegas, Red Rock remains his favorite climbing area; where he can be found digging in the dirt establishing new routes and repeating old favorites every chance he gets. |
| Back to the top | Photographer: Jared McMillen |
Kevin Wilkinson
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 Climbing since 1999, rock climber Kevin Wilkinson spent nearly a decade working as a backcountry ranger for Canada's B.C. Parks before he decided that even four months away from climbing every year was too much. Since 2007, then, Kevin has made climbing even more his reality, traveling to locales both far and near to pursue his passion. To date, his accomplishments include redpoints of nearly 20 5.14s, onsights of 30 5.13s, 125 first ascents in Japan, Canada, Spain, and the U.S., and equipping routes in Maple Canyon, UT; Last Chance Canyon, NM; Ten Sleep Canyon, WY; Lakit and Saint, BC; among others. Kevin's sponsors for rock climbing include La Sportiva, Petzl, and prAna. The writer of two self-published guidebooks (Lakit, BC and Saint, BC), Kevin has also bouldered V11/12 and recently tried his hand at indoor competition for the first time in 2007, with positive results.
When Kevin isn't climbing or training for climbing, he uses climbing as a vehicle to give back to the climbing community and the community at large. Kevin's community participation has included events such as Rocktoberfest, HERA Climb for Life, and the American Alpine Club's annual gathering, as well as helping to found and coordinate the inaugural climbing program for the C5 Youth Foundation in the summer of 2008. Sharing his passion for climbing with others through teaching and outreach programs provides Kevin with the opportunity to support the growth and development of this sport both within the community and beyond, while helping to promote the companies he believes in in the process.
Outside of climbing, Kevin enjoys searching for new rock, riding his motorbike, and of course, eating gummy bears. |
| Back to the top | Photographer: unknown |
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