Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

Finally an improved version of the ATC guide: lighter, correct orientation of the carabiner attachments, and the small hole at the bottom is enough to clip a small carabiner.

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

I use this all the time. My plan was to only use this to belay from the top but I like it so much that i use it all the time. It is very smooth when lowering someone and easy to take in slack. The extra wide hole for belaying from the top allows you to use 2 non lockers (if you don't have a locker). Also having this hole horizontally makes it easier to belay from the top, it keeps the device straight up and down instead of the Black Diamond version which tends to lay sideways when belaying.

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

I just used this for the first time. My rope is a 10.2mm. I used this on a classic flatirons route with some very easy slabby sections and run-outs. When my second got moving fast, I was able to yard in rope as fast as I wanted in auto lock (reverso) mode. He even complained that I almost took away his footing a few times taking in the rope! I could never do that with a Meunter or belaying from my loop. You should always keep a hand on the break strand but the auto braking is a nice backup.

I did a 50M rap and it never got as hot as my Black Diamond ATC or ATC XP. Maybe all of the extra loops helps dissipate heat with the extra surface area?? I still prefer a fig 8 for long raps.

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

The design is low profile and efficient. I used it for a toprope class and the 10.5 mm rope barely went in. Although that's not the primary use, it's nice to have one versatile belay device.

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

I've been an avid climber for about 4 years and so far, this is as good or better than any belay device of it's kind. I've used it with medium to thick ropes with no issue, I feel like it feeds better than the original Reverso, with the same and added features. Although the design doesn't seem entirely original, the device works great and I wouldn't trade it for another.

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

In 2008 I prefer the Petzl Reverso 3. In 2006 I preferred the Black Diamond Guide. In 2004 I preferred the Petzl Reverso. Can't wait for 2010! Come on Trango; revamp the Magic APD.

But for now, this Reverso 3 seems superior, to me. It is a very light AutoBlock device 2.5 oz rather than ATC Guide 3.6 oz. It feeds slack quickly to the leader, as long as your ropes are 10.2mm and smaller. It provides better friction on half ropes and twin ropes (except for the miniature Reversino) than other AutoBlocks. It securely AutoBlocks on tiny 7.5mm ropes, which is not my experience with the ATC Guide or the Reverso. It needs only a single (locking) carabiner for its anchor to belay two following climbers simultaneously (the Trango B-52 needs two carabiners to anchor it smoothly). The anchor hole is large enough to fit two (non-locking) carabiners if you don't have a locker or in you like that redundancy. The escape hole is large enough to fit some carabiners thru which makes providing slack by lifting the AutoBlock while weighted, possible. Other AutoBlocks require small accessory cord or skinny webbing only, their escape holes won't accept a carabiner.

I've belayed a pair of followers climbing simultaneously with the Reverso 3 in AutoBlock mode over 40 pitches, using 8.6mm Half Ropes. It has worked fantastic.

I've needed to provide slack on a few occasions to a follower while they were hanging on the AutoBlock Reverso 3; by slotting a (Trango Superfly, Petzl Spirit, Black Diamond Hotwire, Petzl Attache) carabiner thru the escape hole and using the carabiner as a lever it was easy. Can't fit a carabiner thru the escape hole of any other AutoBlock device.

I've rappelled 8.6mm Half Ropes about 30 pitches, the friction has been better than other AutoBlocks, excepting the miniature Reversino (but that device develops knife-sharp edges on the back of the device in the stamped aluminum).

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

Got one and it is great!!! Doesnt get sharp like the old one did and doesnt lock up like the old one did. Better than the Guide becuase of its weight. Almost identical in use .:) GREEEAT BUY!!

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

nice belay device that can be converted to a self locking device

Comments about Petzl Reverso 3 Belay / Rappel Device:

Bummer is that it is really a tight squeeze when using it in the auto block mode to belay your second. I have a 10MM rope and it was hard work! Definitely designed for skinny ropes- like 9.5MM and under.